Magnifique is the Sofitel Legend Metropole‘s motto for magnificent reasons. I have been dying to stay at this historic Hanoi hotel since dining at their poolside restaurant over a year ago with Laura. Paul’s business meeting and our second anniversary were the perfect reasons to return for a special one-night getaway. Upon entering this legendary hotel, you are transported back to a bygone era of chic and gracious living.

Gorgeous 1953 Citroen cars

Fabulously, we were upgraded to the elegant Charlie Chaplin suite (his favorite Hanoi hotel) in the historical wing. From scrupulous attention to detail and divine gastronomical offerings (I would travel to Hanoi just for the croque monsieur and french onion soup!), this hotel was the perfect choice to celebrate our anniversary.

Celebrating two years at Metropole

The Hôtel Métropole first opened its doors in 1901 and was soon recognized as one of the world’s best and was without equal in Vietnam. It was the first venue to show “moving pictures” in all of Indochine. More recently, the Metropole was chosen as one of only two Vietnam hotels to make Conde Nast’s “Best Hotels throughout the World” list.

Poolside mango ice cream

During 2011 renovations, the hotel rediscovered the bomb shelter used during the Vietnam/American war to shelter hotel guests.  It is now part of their fascinating Paths of History tour. Jane Fonda and Joan Baez both were sheltered in the bunker during Hanoi bombing raids. And because this is an apolitical blog, know that the hotel has also welcomed George Bush, Sr., Bill Clinton, and John McCain. More recently, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie made the Metropole their home during a visit to Hanoi. No matter which side you were on during the war, most would agree that it was a horrid chapter in our world’s history. Much nicer to enjoy all the other wonderful offerings at the Metropole and in life!

Touring the Metropole’s bomb shelter

Saigon PEACE & LOVE to all, Lisa

I am so sad not to be in New Orleans to celebrate this momentous day. But know that I am thinking of you from afar…my one in a million DAD! I am who I am and my beautiful children are who are they are in large part because of you. Thank you for loving me, caring for me, teaching me, spending time with me, and for always being there for me. I am so proud to be your daughter on this very special day and everyday. Saigon LOVE to you, Daddy! I LOVE you. Chúc mừng sinh nhật!

My Dad with all five daughters!

1. SAIGON LOVE – Although excited when I began this blog, two years later, I am also grateful for this online diary of my time in Vietnam. I have learned so much about writing, video making and photography. So far, Saigon Love has had over 17,000 visits from 97 countries! So crazy when I think that this began as a medium to share my photos and experiences with family and friends.
   

   Love my photo of this fisherman on China Beach in Danang

2. VIETNAM – I fall more in love every day with this amazing country. There are so many dimensions to its diverse culture that I could live here 100 years and still have more to explore. In the past two years, I have traveled over 250,000 miles to 31 cities in over 9 different countries. And I would be lying if I said the exquisite cuisine did not factor into the pleasure of my time here! But sweetest of all, is my widening circle of friends in Saigon. I am so blessed to have made meaningful friendships here that I will carry with me long after I leave Vietnam.
   

   Laura and I are masters of self portrait iPad photos!

3. PAUL – So appreciative of my husband for his contributions to this wondrous and beautiful chapter of my life. Thank you, my sweetie.
   

   Celebrating 2nd wedding anniversary in Hanoi

And thanks to everyone who reads Saigon Love. So gratifying to know people are interested enough to read my blog. It keeps me blogging away. Here’s to year three! Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

Sa Pa was first settled in 1909 by French civilian residents who were attracted to the continental climate. Under the French colonial period, many hotels, villas and tennis courts were built and the region was transformed into a summer retreat. The mountainous landscape is filled with rice terraced fields, lush vegetation and the highest mountain peak (Fanispan) in Vietnam.  Conditions here are ideal for many crops and animals which allows locals to support themselves. This was very evident as Tien and I climbed up and down the mountains for three days. We ate tasty indigenous dishes and  observed locals making their own vibrant clothing from the indigo plants and hemp. They even have their own unique headache cure. We saw many people with round, red marks on their foreheads (you will notice a few in my video below). Our guide, Nhu, told us that the mark is created with the end of a buffalo horn that is heated with fire and then placed on forehead! So glad we have Tylenol.

Tien with new friend!

There are five ethnic minority tribes living in Sa Pa region. Many migrated from China as early as the 13th century. The two dominant groups (H’mong and Dao) have their own branch minorities. Each group has its own culture, traditions and costumes. Each tribe also speaks their own language. Many have also learned Vietnamese in school and English from their interactions with tourists.

Young man on his way to the LOVE Market

One tradition I was eager to explore is the famed Love Market where teens gather to find their mate. Unfortunately, this custom is now mostly a tourist attraction with young people now flocking to the event to learn English or sell their trinkets. Girls and boys marry as young as fifteen years old. Aside from the constant haranguing for your business, the ethnic minorities were absolutely mesmerizing to me. After you watch this slideshow, you will also fall in love!

Sa Pa is experiencing a big surge in tourism for obvious reasons. Tien and I will never forget our beautiful adventure and time together in this stunning and fascinating destination. Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

Raffles is home of the Singapore Sling

A trip to Singapore is not complete without chicken satay!

Stunning Raffles Hotel

The next morning we boarded the train and settled in to our TINY compartment, which was ingeniously designed to hold all of our luggage with room left over to breathe! Now, it was time to explore our glamourous new environment. We adored the open air observation car and spent relaxing time with a coffee (or beer!) watching the lush landscape pass us by.  Lunch and dinner was served in one of three ornate dining cars (breakfast served in our compartment) and often we were seated with fascinating passengers from around the world. There was also a bar car with pianist and for one evening…Thai dancers.

Our cozy compartment…bunk bed over me!

After a brief stop the first night at the historic Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, we disembarked the second day at the Butterworth railway station for our visit to George Town on Penang Island, Malaysia. By motor coach, we crossed the longest bridge in Malaysia to the Penang capital of George Town. We toured this delightfully historic town by trishaw. The multi-cultural heritage was evident by the Malay, Chinese and Indian communities. We saw vibrant markets, elaborate temples, mosques and colonial architecture throughout the city.

Laura enjoying her trishaw ride in George Town

On our third and final day, we visited the Thailand-Burma Railway. You probably know it best from the Academy Award winning motion picture Bridge over the River Kwai. The railway is an extraordinary 257 miles in length over mountainous jungle and unbelievably constructed with hand tools and some dynamite in just twelve months in 1942 during WWII at a cost of over 130,000 lives.

Bridge over the River Kwai

Final resting place of thousands who perished building the Thailand-Burma Railway.

Were you worried that I forgot to make a movie? You are one of the select few to get a sneak peek of this Spring’s blockbuster – Mystery on the Orient Express. Feast your eyes:

We had a hunch this might be one of those “once-in-a-lifetime” trips. We were correct! Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

pretty flower girl

This is also the time for haircuts, new clothes and many flowers. One of the most beautiful New Year traditions in Vietnam are the flower markets.  In Saigon there are more than fifty, including my favorite on downtown Nguyen Hue Street, which blooms for one week as a pedestrian flower street. Everyone dresses in their finery and strolls down the street enjoying time together and the spectacular floral displays.

I had a wonderful time mingling and snapping away during this very special time. Get in the Tết spirit with Happy New Year by Abba (most popular tune during Tết) and this wee slideshow prepared just for you:

You may have noticed that my photography skills have improved a little. The credit goes to my talented photography teacher and guru, Yan Lerval. Yan is the person who helped me to finally understand the mechanics of my camera! Not only has he imparted great camera and photo editing knowledge, he is now a dear friend. Click on his name to see his amazing collection of Vietnam photos.

Yan and his lovely wife, Nhan, at one of the many flower markets

Farewell to the year of the dragon and welcome to the year of the snake! Chúc Mừng Năm Mới (Happy New Year) and Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

Angkor’s Ta Phrom Temple is strangled by ancient fig tree roots

This description from Trip Advisor pretty much sums it up: “Angkor Wat, in its beauty and state of preservation, is unrivaled. Its mightiness and magnificence bespeak a pomp and a luxury surpassing that of a Pharaoh or a Shah Jahan, an impressiveness greater than that of the Pyramids, an artistic distinctiveness as fine as that of the Taj Mahal.”

It was an experience like no other walking around stunning, ancient temples that are surrounded by a tropical forest in the Kingdom of Cambodia. My faithful travel friend, Laura, and I began our adventure with a short 50 minute flight from Saigon to the north central Cambodian town of Siem Reap, which is the gateway to the city of Angkor. In Siem Reap, we settled in at the lush La Résidence d’Angkor which is ideally situated for exploring these treasured ruins.

Usually when people say  ‘Angkor Wat’ they often are referring to the gigantic 400 square kilometre complex of over a hundred temples which is actually the Angkor Archaelogical Park. Angkor Wat is the largest and most preserved of all the temples in the park. These ancient temples were built by the Khmer empire between AD 802 and 1432.  At one time it is believed that the city had a population of over one million at a time when London only had 50,000! This Unesco World Heritage Site receives over two million visitors every year.  Many of the temples have been pried apart by humongous banyan (fig) tree roots. Of course, Miss Paul Studios produced a short film to document this wondrous place:

The most famous temple is Angkor Wat and is seen very much as a symbol of Cambodia. It is even on the country’s flag. At 500 acres, it is the world’s largest religious building and is surrounded by an unbelievable 600 foot wide moat. Angkor Wat was built over the course of 40 years by Khmer King Suryavarman II. Engineers estimate that it would take 300 years today to construct such a huge monument. Construction was not completed because the king died. Surprisingly, when Frenchman Henri Mouhot discovered the complex in 1860, the jungle natives thought the temple had been built by gods or giants. The temple is renown for the Hindu stories carved into the walls. My favorites were the many Apsara celestial nymphs everywhere with all their different hair styles and adornments. Although built as an Hindu temple, Buddhist monks eventually claimed the site and still travel to the site today.

Our tour guide extraordinare, Mr. Prem Sophiap

And as  impressed as I was with this ancient marvel, I was equally affected by the beautiful people of Cambodia. Our tour guide for the duration of our stay was the oh-so-knowledgeable  Prem Sophiap. He arranged a personalized tour that could not have suited us better. In addition to temple tours, he had great suggestions for photo ops, dining and shopping.  After one rainy temple visit, Sophiap pointed out a group of young boys having the time of their life in a rain swollen ditch:

Cambodia does not have child labor laws and many kids work at these temples selling souvenirs or begging. Be sure there is an adult somewhere nearby to collect their earnings. The average Cambodian adult makes $30 a month, so every time a child earns a dollar it is equal to their parent’s 12 hour work day. These children touched my heart, especially the young girls. I wanted to put them in my suitcase:

I did not appreciate the architectural achievement that is Angkor until my visit. I only wish I were better able to articulate and share with you how astonishing it was. Words, photos and videos can never do it justice. Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

Here’s an excerpt:

600 people reached the top of Mt. Everest in 2012. This blog got about 8,000 views in 2012. If every person who reached the top of Mt. Everest viewed this blog, it would have taken 13 years to get that many views.

Click here to see the complete report.

My favorite Saigon green mango vendor with her granddaughter and shoulder pole.

No matter where you go in Saigon, you will see women of every age balancing their shoulder poles with baskets or pots filled with fresh fruit, sweets, rice, soup, bread, coffee and many other goodies. Every day these mothers and grandmothers carry these poles from early dawn to late at night to earn a living. Because of their dedication, many children have been educated and found the success their mothers worked so hard to give them.

If you have three minutes, check out my video production in honor of these inspirational and industrious women:

I found this sweet poem translated from Vietnamese on the internet about a child’s appreciation of his mother and her đòn gánh tre:

The bamboo poles
Oh, the bamboo poles
On my mother’s shoulders
Have brought me up in life
Heavy burdens
Bringing joy to children…
I remember…
Mother coming home
After a long day in market
Bamboo baskets full of food and gifts
Swinging… at the two ends of the long poles
On my mother’s shoulders
At that time I was a child,
Eyes bigger than belly
I was so happy
To welcome Mom coming home
With smiles so sweet
And things nice to eat
As I grow up
I understand
Mother’s burdens are heavy
For her children’s lives to be easy
Mother works hard day by day
For her children to have brightened lives
Oh mother’s love…
So high so deep!
Oh bamboo poles
Dear poles, great poles!
On my mother’s shoulders
Have brought me up with love

In closing, I am reminded of this Russian proverb:  The burden is light on the shoulder of another.  Saigon LOVE and Happy New Year to all, Lisa

• What better way to start this list…dumplings! No trip to Bangkok is complete for me without a visit to the sumptious Benjarong restaurant in the regal Dusit Thani Bangkok hotel. These are the most charming chicken and peanut dumplings of all time that were first made for an ancient Thai princess!

Sometimes I feel bad eating these cute little dumplings…NOT!

• This is a city that lives on its canals as much as its streets, hence the nickname: “Venice of the East.”  Life in Bangkok has always centered around the Chayo Praya River and its network of canals (called Khlongs). Many of the canals were filled in to make way for new streets and buildings. But via boat, you can still see life along the river and canals. Many of  Bangkok’s major attractions (ancient temples, palaces and floating markets) lie along the river making a river/canal ride a feast for the eyes.

Longtail boat ride along the Chayo Praya River.

• Bangkok is a shopping mecca. You can find everything from high end luxury items to inexpensive knock offs. On a recent visit, I finally made it to the 35 acre Chatuchak weekend market and immediately fell in love. Just wish I had the time to visit all 8,000 stalls! I also adore shopping at the new riverfront Asiatique night market and Siam Paragon, one of the largest malls in Southeast Asia. Across the street from Siam Paragon is one more must-go-shopping stop: the MBK shopping center. No better place to find ANYTHING and my favorite place for Thai souvenirs and electronics. You could spend months in Bangkok and not make a dent in the shopping scene…gotta love that!

Just one of 8,000 stalls at the Chatuchak weekend market!

• An oasis in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok is the Jim Thompson House and Museum. Jim Thompson was an American architect, retired Army officer, one-time spy, and renowned antique collector who fell in love with Thailand while stationed there during WWII. He is often credited with almost single handedly bringing back the Thai silk industry in the 1950′s when he started his hand woven silk business. To showcase his objets d’art, he constructed an architectural six-building masterpiece recycling old teak house parts to create an absolutely stunning home. Tragically, Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared in the jungle while visiting friends in Malaysia. At the time of his disappearance, he was the most famous American living in Asia. To this day, this mystery has not been solved. His home is now a lovely museum with lush tropical gardens, koi fish ponds, a great restaurant and gift shop. His silk legacy survives through the many Jim Thompson gift shops in Thailand.

Living room with stairs leading to the canal at Jim Thompson House and Museum

• Many consider Bangkok as the best place in the world for street food. Seriously, it should be a highlight of anyone’s visit here. Often, it is cooked to order over a fire wok. You can find anything from noodles, soups, curries, rice, insects, sweets, whole roasted corn, omelets, minced pork balls, papaya salad, tiny soft shell crabs and a thousand more dishes. My fave find so far was the roasted oysters with an unbelievable sauce. Usually, the accompanying sauce to any of these dishes has the balance of four flavors that Thais say are a must in every meal: sweet, salty, sour and spicy. And talk about cheap…most of these dishes cost less than $1.00!

This guy is actually frying in the street!

• Once you figure it out, Bangkok has many transportation choices. With horrendous 24/7 traffic, I try to avoid taxis (even the hot pink ones!) and jump on the efficient metro subway or sky train. And a tuk tuk is always a fun option. Just make sure you agree on the price before you get in. Every time you turn around, a cab or tuk tuk driver is trying to take you to a store where they get a kickback or on an overpriced tour!

I didn’t really drive this tuk tuk.

• One of the reasons for my multiple Bangkok visits is to take advantage of the very modern and affordable health care. Also, a very convenient one hour and fifteen minute flight from Saigon!

I feel like I am in an episode of the Jetsons when I visit Bangkok International Dental Center!

• Two words: Singha beer!

And it tastes best over ice at my favorite Benjarong restaurant!

• The people of Bangkok are so very warm and friendly that you can’t help but love them! They are laid back and kind of take life as it comes. It is very endearing to observe how they embrace their history, culture and vibrant lifestyle.

Leaving you with my favorite Bangkok photo taken at the Jim Thompson House and Museum. Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa