100!

Seems so fitting that my 100th blog post coincides with two years of Saigon Love blogging, my two year wedding anniversary, and two years of living in Vietnam. Please indulge me for a minute as I express a few thoughts about these little milestones:

  1. SAIGON LOVE – Although excited when I began this blog, two years later, I am also grateful for this online diary of my time in Vietnam. I have learned so much about writing, video making and photography. So far, Saigon Love has had over 17,000 visits from 97 countries! So crazy when I think that this began as a medium to share my photos and experiences with family and friends.

    Fishing basket boat on China Beach in Danang, Vietnam

    Love my photo of this fisherman on China Beach in Danang

  2. VIETNAM – I fall more in love every day with this amazing country. There are so many dimensions to its diverse culture that I could live here 100 years and still have more to explore. In the past two years, I have traveled over 250,000 miles to 31 cities in over 9 different countries. And I would be lying if I said the exquisite cuisine did not factor into the pleasure of my time here! But sweetest of all, is my widening circle of friends in Saigon. I am so blessed to have made meaningful friendships here that I will carry with me long after I leave Vietnam.

    Laura and I are masters of self portrait iPad photos!

    Laura and I are masters of self portrait iPad photos!

  3. PAUL – So appreciative of my husband for his contributions to this wondrous and beautiful chapter of my life. Thank you, my sweetie.

    Celebrating two years in Hanoi

    Celebrating 2nd wedding anniversary in Hanoi

And thanks to everyone who reads Saigon Love. So gratifying to know people are interested enough to read my blog. It keeps me blogging away. Here’s to year three! Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

all aboard!

Laura and I recently journeyed over 1,200 miles from Singapore to Bangkok on the Orient Express’ Eastern and Oriental line. We decided to make the most of our one night in Singapore and stayed at what is often billed as the world’s greatest hotel…the Raffles Hotel. Since 1887, this hotel has been a destination in of itself and exudes a colonial ambiance and history that no other hotel can match.

Enjoying a Singapore Sling

Raffles is home of the Singapore Sling

Chicken Satay

A trip to Singapore is not complete without chicken satay!

Captivating Raffles Hotel

Stunning Raffles Hotel

The next morning we boarded the train and settled in to our TINY compartment, which was ingeniously designed to hold all of our luggage with room left over to breathe! Now, it was time to explore our glamourous new environment. We adored the open air observation car and spent relaxing time with a coffee (or beer!) watching the lush landscape pass us by.  Lunch and dinner was served in one of three ornate dining cars (breakfast served in our compartment) and often we were seated with fascinating passengers from around the world. There was also a bar car with pianist and for one evening…Thai dancers.

Our cozy compartment...bunk bed over me!

Our cozy compartment…bunk bed over me!

After a brief stop the first night at the historic Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, we disembarked the second day at the Butterworth railway station for our visit to George Town on Penang Island, Malaysia. By motor coach, we crossed the longest bridge in Malaysia to the Penang capital of George Town. We toured this delightfully historic town by trishaw. The multi-cultural heritage was evident by the Malay, Chinese and Indian communities. We saw vibrant markets, elaborate temples, mosques and colonial architecture throughout the city.

Laura enjoying her trishaw ride through George Town

Laura enjoying her trishaw ride in George Town

On our third and final day, we visited the Thailand-Burma Railway. You probably know it best from the Academy Award winning motion picture Bridge over the River Kwai. The railway is an extraordinary 257 miles in length over mountainous jungle and unbelievably constructed with hand tools and some dynamite in just twelve months in 1942 during WWII at a cost of over 130,000 lives.

Bridge over the River Kwai

Bridge over the River Kwai

DSC_2405

Final resting place of thousands who perished building the Thailand-Burma Railway.

Were you worried that I forgot to make a movie? You are one of the select few to get a sneak peek of this Spring’s blockbuster – Mystery on the Orient Express. Feast your eyes:

We had a hunch this might be one of those “once-in-a-lifetime” trips. We were correct! Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

what? angkor wat!

Angkor’s Ta Phrom Temple is strangled by ancient fig tree roots

This description from Trip Advisor pretty much sums it up: “Angkor Wat, in its beauty and state of preservation, is unrivaled. Its mightiness and magnificence bespeak a pomp and a luxury surpassing that of a Pharaoh or a Shah Jahan, an impressiveness greater than that of the Pyramids, an artistic distinctiveness as fine as that of the Taj Mahal.”

It was an experience like no other walking around stunning, ancient temples that are surrounded by a tropical forest in the Kingdom of Cambodia. My faithful travel friend, Laura, and I began our adventure with a short 50 minute flight from Saigon to the north central Cambodian town of Siem Reap, which is the gateway to the city of Angkor. In Siem Reap, we settled in at the lush La Résidence d’Angkor which is ideally situated for exploring these treasured ruins.

Usually when people say  ‘Angkor Wat’ they often are referring to the gigantic 400 square kilometre complex of over a hundred temples which is actually the Angkor Archaelogical Park. Angkor Wat is the largest and most preserved of all the temples in the park. These ancient temples were built by the Khmer empire between AD 802 and 1432.  At one time it is believed that the city had a population of over one million at a time when London only had 50,000! This Unesco World Heritage Site receives over two million visitors every year.  Many of the temples have been pried apart by humongous banyan (fig) tree roots. Of course, Miss Paul Studios produced a short film to document this wondrous place:

The most famous temple is Angkor Wat and is seen very much as a symbol of Cambodia. It is even on the country’s flag. At 500 acres, it is the world’s largest religious building and is surrounded by an unbelievable 600 foot wide moat. Angkor Wat was built over the course of 40 years by Khmer King Suryavarman II. Engineers estimate that it would take 300 years today to construct such a huge monument. Construction was not completed because the king died. Surprisingly, when Frenchman Henri Mouhot discovered the complex in 1860, the jungle natives thought the temple had been built by gods or giants. The temple is renown for the Hindu stories carved into the walls. My favorites were the many Apsara celestial nymphs everywhere with all their different hair styles and adornments. Although built as an Hindu temple, Buddhist monks eventually claimed the site and still travel to the site today.

Our tour guide extraordinare

Our tour guide extraordinare, Mr. Prem Sophiap

And as  impressed as I was with this ancient marvel, I was equally affected by the beautiful people of Cambodia. Our tour guide for the duration of our stay was the oh-so-knowledgeable  Prem Sophiap. He arranged a personalized tour that could not have suited us better. In addition to temple tours, he had great suggestions for photo ops, dining and shopping.  After one rainy temple visit, Sophiap pointed out a group of young boys having the time of their life in a rain swollen ditch:

Cambodia does not have child labor laws and many kids work at these temples selling souvenirs or begging. Be sure there is an adult somewhere nearby to collect their earnings. The average Cambodian adult makes $30 a month, so every time a child earns a dollar it is equal to their parent’s 12 hour work day. These children touched my heart, especially the young girls. I wanted to put them in my suitcase:

I did not appreciate the architectural achievement that is Angkor until my visit. I only wish I were better able to articulate and share with you how astonishing it was. Words, photos and videos can never do it justice. Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

fine china part iii

Shanghai stole my heart. It is quite the modern contrast to Beijing. Not as many ancient attractions but it is so charming and friendly with its own unique vibe. It is hard to believe that Shanghai has a  population of over 23 million persons (12.21 million live in the urban areas) making it the largest population in the world!

I loved it from the minute I entered the shady tree-lined former French Concession via moto sidecar during my Shanghai Sideways tour, until it was time to return to Saigon. The only down side was my travel buddy, Laura, having to work :( which left me to play all by myself. Besides hanging out in the former French Concession, I also visited the Bund with its incredible skyline and The Shanghai Museum to visit its extraordinary jade exhibit. I saw pieces of jade dating back to B.C. times! Another highlight of my stay, my morning outing with Shopping Tours Shanghai.com, where I visited a silk market and factory, porcelain store, local wet market and a fab lunch in a very Shanghainese restaurant. Oh, and let’s not forget, I had the best dumplings of my life in Shanghai…

You’re going to want to jump on a jet bound for Shanghai after watching this little movie…just do it!

Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

fine china part i

Used to describe ceramic porcelain in China and elsewhere, “fine China” is also an appropriate description of my first trip to mainland China. I met Laura in between her business trips for a little holiday in Beijing and then followed her to Shanghai. The city of Beijing is Part I of a three part series on China:

Laura and I are ON the Great Wall of China!

Beijing, sometimes referred to as Peking, is the capital of China and has an incredible population of over 7 million people, making it one of the most populous cities in the world. It is the second largest Chinese city after Shanghai, and is renown for its ancient history and must-see attractions. We of course checked the hard-to-wrap-your-brain-around Great Wall of China off our bucket lists in addition to the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square and so much more.

Our tour guide, Lisa, was amazing! She took us behind the scenes and personalized the tour perfectly.  Her choice for my first Peking duck at a local’s place was spot on and delicious. We also snagged reservations at the Black Sesame private kitchen which was founded by a Chinese American, Jen Lin-Liu, who returned to China and learned how to cook.  She wrote a very inspiring book about her experience called “Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey through China” which I enjoyed immensely. After finally finding the restaurant in a crowded hutong neighborhood, we began our degustation menu which included ten Chinese gourmet courses (the red braised pork was unbelievable!) and a free flow of beer and wine…all for $50. There are only two tables in the restaurant which are shared with others from around the world. We were seated with a local Beijing professor, a Russian mother and daughter and an Oxford professor. A very memorable evening and one of the  best dining experiences I have ever enjoyed!

Black Sesame Kitchen

It is impossible to capture Beijing in a video, but here is my highlights reel attempt:

welcome to fantasy island

I have had the unforgettable pleasure of visiting two extraordinary resorts on an island in Ninh Van Bay off the coast of Nha Trang, Vietnam.  The sense of arrival at both resorts with entire staffs waiting to greet on the pier,  made you feel like a guest star on an episode of the television series, Fantasy Island! Both evoked subdued elegance and exquisite traditional Vietnamese architecture while overlooking the very picturesque East Vietnam Sea.

View from our beach villa’s private pool at An Lam

My first trip to Nha Trang was to the awesome Six Senses Ninh Van Bay with my friends, Laura and Maria. After an amazing experience, I knew I had to return with Paul.  We chose a two-story beach villa, although the rock, water and hill top villas looked equally inviting. Most impressive was the level of luxury while still maintaining a very green operation.  Our villa had a private pool complete with butler service.  Sugar, our sweet butler, delivered impeccable service with personal touches that made everything that much more special. Besides just chilling out, we visited the wine cave for a wine tasting and on the second trip for a private romantic dinner. The food was absolutely fabulous and we especially loved the expansive breakfast buffet. Later this summer, Laura and I are visiting their resort in Con Dao, Vietnam. We can’t wait for more of the Six Senses treatment!

Romantic wine cave dinner at Six Senses

Last weekend, Laura and I visited Epikurean’s  An Lam Ninh Van Bay, another five star resort on the same island right around the bend from Six Senses. WOW! Just as impressive as their neighbor, yet with their own inimitable style.  Our butler, Luan, went above and beyond from the get-go! Our beer was always iced and each day he scattered flowers in our pool. Luan offered to arrange dinner on the catamaran but we opted instead for private tables on the jetty and the torch-lit beach. So many available activities, but we were thrilled to just enjoy our villa. Very obvious was the hands-on management style at An Lam. We enjoyed getting to know the property’s manager, Miss Lei who shared about other Epikurean properties. Hoping one is in our future…

Watch this video and enjoy your own little fantasy:

I would be hard pressed to choose between these two superb destinations. Both delivered breathtaking yet different escapes that I had only dreamed of before. Maybe I can just fly back to both? “Mr. Roarke, ze plane, ze plane!”

jazzy transition

Last night Laura, Nicole and I organized an impromptu restaurant/bar hop. After dropping in at the Intercontinental’s Mid Summer’s Eve poolside soiree, we ventured over to the posh 2 Lam Som Martini Bar in the Park Hyatt. I am thrilled to report that the always accommodating Park Hyatt has now added San Miguel Light beer to their offerings of fine adult beverages. Thanks, Melanie!

We delighted in a couple of drinks and the best spicy cashews in Saigon before hopping over to one of the newest hotspots in Ho Chi Minh City, Blanchy’s Tash restobar. We must have been too early as we were the only customers! Their menu is a unique fusion of Japanese and South American cuisine.  The appetizers and signature chicken were quite the palate pleasers! With full tummies and the DJ just warming up, we ditched the original hop plan and came to a halt at the Sax n Art Jazz Club! Recently returned from my hiatus to the music meccas of New Orleans and Austin, this was a nice segue back to my Saigon Life.

This jazz club has been on my Saigon to-do list for a long time. It has been recommended to me more than a few times with good reason.  It was fabulous and easily exceeded all of my expectations. We were thoroughly entertained by the super talented saxophonist, Tran Manh Tuan, who masterfully blends contemporary jazz with traditional Vietnamese music. The ambiance and service were spot on for this cozy jazz oasis and we can’t wait to go back! Give your ears a tiny treat and check out this tiny clip of jazzy notes:

Happy to be back in Saigon LOVE to all, Lisa

heaven on earth

When describing how beautiful Halong Bay was to my daughter, Nina, she said “Mom, you say that about everywhere you go in Vietnam!”. I can’t help it…it is true.  Each destination seems to be more breathtaking than the one before.

Made the trip with my new travel buddy, Laura.  She was in Hanoi on business and I caught up with her on her last day. The next morning we made the three and a half hour drive to Halong Bay. We boarded the Paradise Luxury junk boat and began our three day tour.  Along the route, we stopped to visit floating villages, islands, caves and swimming locales. It didn’t matter if it was morning, evening, sunny or rainy, the view was always spectacular. And it was so special meeting locals and fellow travelers. But, none more so than the Starlin family from New Orleans. I spotted Drew’s (GOOD name!) Saints’ shirt and knew I had to make their acquaintance!

NOLA Starlin Family

I hope you find my Halong Bay film entertaining.  I know I enjoyed making it just for you!

This week, Laura and I are traveling to Nha Trang, said to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Vietnam. I am running out of superlatives to describe the beauty of Vietnam. Saigon Love to all, Lisa

it’s a dangerous job…

…this blogging business. If you are paying close attention, you will notice that I fall off a bridge at the end of this movie trailer! This was after a barefoot jungle trek braving rugged terrain, water buffalo, slippery rocks, goats, flooded trails AND spiders on Cat Ba Island in Halong Bay with my friend, Laura:

And you thought this was a cushy job! But, as you clearly saw, I am up for the challenge. I am now hard at work on my Halong Bay movie blockbuster scheduled for release later this week. Wait until you feast your eyes on the spectacular beauty of this little piece of “Heaven on Earth”.  Saigon Love to all, Lisa

post no. 50! hong kong!

Two things immediately come to mind when I now think of Hong Kong:  the unbelievably expansive views and what has to be the best shopping in the world! Everywhere I turned, there was another view or retail opportunity to feast my eyes on. I also left with the sense that I had barely scratched the Pearl of the Orient’s surface.

Staggering view from Victoria’s Peak

Although Hong Kong ended 156 years of British colonial rule  in 1997, there are still many reminders of the Queen’s rule. Everything from pubs, street names, colonial era buildings, statues and street names. One of the more enduring English traditions is high tea and the most celebrated place to do it is at the Peninsula Hotel. However, if you don’t get there early and have the proper shoe attire (no flip flops!), you probably won’t get in!

Van Cleef  and Arpels behind me in Peninsula Hotel lobby.

Hong Kong is a veritable fashionista hub. From glitzy malls to funky street markets and everything in between.  AND they have very ravishing pearls!

Swarming Ladies’ Market

The Intercontinental Hotel undoubtedly has the best location in all of Hong Kong. My harbor view room made me feel like I was floating over the water.  It also gave me a front row seat to the world’s largest nightly laser light show!

Daytime view from my hotel room

Symphony of Lights Laser Show

How about this scene from my hotel’s infinity swimming pool? Actually, were it not for this pool, I could have accomplished more sightseeing and shopping!

This pool blew my mind!

You know how sometimes you meet someone and click right away? This describes my new friendship with Laura. She recently moved to Saigon on business and we have become fast friends.  Occasionally, she has business in Hong Kong and it just so happened we overlapped a couple of days.  This was MARVELOUS! She showed me the Hong Kong ropes and we had a fab time shopping, drinking, eating and hanging out. Hoping to go back with her soon! Love you, girl!

Dining adventure at Harlan’s with my good friend, Laura.

I know you are all expecting to hear about my Hong Kong “cyclo” experience…I mean, when you think of Hong Kong, rickshaws are one of the images that comes to mind. According to my guidebook, only four remain in all of Hong Kong and when I found them, two were for sale and two were without pullers! :(

Where have all the rickshaws gone?!

But the plethora of dumplings in Hong Kong kind of made up for it!

Three of many dumplings consumed during my trip!

Next stop…Mekong Delta! Saigon Love to all, Lisa

Blog Stats

  • 19,320 hits
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 71 other followers